Magical and mighty Morocco. I recommend putting Morocco on your short-list of more exotic places to visit. Morocco is affordable and mesmerizing. My trip to Morocco took me to Rabat, Chefchaouen, Fes, Meknes, and Casablanca. Depending on how much time you have in the country, you will need to choose which areas to explore. The more time you have, the more you can see. But don’t shortchange yourself by trying to rush through and see too much. Morocco is worthy of a slower pace in order to really soak up all the country has to offer.

Where to Stay

I Airbnb’d through Morocco. I loved being in Moroccans’ homes and learning more about the people and their country. Had I stayed in a hotel or resort, I would have missed out on some of the nuances of everyday Moroccan life. Airbnb was cheap, too. My ‘splurge’ Airbnb cost $40 per night for a room in a beautiful home in Chefchaouen. The other nights were in the $11-$30 range. I stayed in a riad, also through Airbnb. A riad is an older home with a central courtyard and multiple bedrooms that has been converted into a mini-hotel.  All of my hosts were accommodating (literally) and gave me more insight into the Moroccan people and locale. Most spoke some English and all were very helpful.

Transportation

Buses, trains, and petite and grande taxis took me everywhere I needed to go. Have Moroccan dirham (cash) on hand. None of my travels could be paid for with a credit card. I took trains and buses long distances. Knowing the schedule ahead of time will be of great value. Rome2Rio’s website helped tremendously with planning. The Casablanca airport had train ticket dispensers which security personnel helped me figure out. All machines are in Arabic (which I speak none of) and French (which I can speak some of.) That helped a bit. Because of the language barrier, know exactly where you want to go. I printed physical maps at home, before the trip, of where I needed to go in case I had to ask for help. And ask I did! Two of my Airbnb hosts were gracious enough to meet me at the bus stop because Moroccan city streets can be a maze – quite literally! Streets were designed so that invaders would hit dead ends and the locals could retain the upper hand and avoid being conquered. I found the public transportation to be completely safe. It was sometimes crowded but I always had a seat. The people were friendly and helped when I was uncertain of which stop I needed.

The Grande Taxis were my favorite, albeit most uncomfortable, method of getting around. The joy (and pain) of a Grande Taxi is that 7 people can fit in the car – usually an older model blue Mercedes. You pay per seat. So, in my case, I paid the equivalent of $1 for a ride outside of Volubilis. If I wanted extra room, I could pay $2 for two seats. Or three. Or four. Why would anyone buy more than one seat you may be thinking? Because two people are stuffed…I mean seated…in the front with the driver, and then four people are stuffed even tighter in the back seat. You barely have room to breathe. But, that’s the fun of it! I made friends this way and we ended up going out for lunch and sharing another Grande Taxi back to the train station.

Food

Food is very affordable in Morocco. I ate for less than a five dollars per day. Choose an Airbnb that serves breakfast as part of the cost. All of my hosts served a hot breakfast every morning. Street vendors sell chickpeas called hummus kamoun. It cost less than 50 cents for a paper cone filled with the hot chickpeas roasted with cumin powder. It was healthy, warm and I could take it on-the-go. For something more filling, find a restaurant where the locals eat or get a recommendation from your Airbnb host. I found a small eatery that was owned and operated by a woman (uncommon in Morocco.) Tagine was my meal of choice. It’s a stew that can be prepared with various meats or, in my case, vegetarian-style. I loved the tagine pots the meal was served in. Tagine and a basket of bread – $3.00. Morocco is still heavily influenced by its years as a French protectorate, so there are many bakeries with wonderful pastries and sweets. Many items cost 25 cents each. At these prices, it’s amazing I didn’t gain 10 pounds on the trip. Outdoor markets are an adventure and sell everything. Even chickens. Alive. Ready to go home and be dinner. 

Souvenirs

Did you know the word souvenir comes from the French word ‘to remember?’ I brought back linens, foods (Doritos for my son), a small breakfast tagine set, pottery bowls, kise (see next section about hammams) and a large woven basket. Some souvenirs are marked up a bit where tourists frequent. The linens I purchased were made in a small shop owned by a weaver who had his young daughter working with him. They had a sweet, small shop and I was more than happy to pay what he asked for the items. Look to see if the items you are buying are from Morocco! I wanted to bring back an authentic head scarf but all of the ones I found were made in India so I didn’t get one. Rug salesmen will pull out all of the stops to make you a customer. It was a little pushy but in an amusing way. The rugs are magnificent. And fairly expensive. My tip is that if you did not intend to buy a rug, don’t. It is hard to vet which rugs are authentic and I found myself lacking in enough knowledge to make a good decision. Next time, I will know more, and maybe, bring one back with me. 

Go to a Hammam

If you do nothing else, go to a hammam. A hammam is a Middle Eastern style spa/massage/bath/pampering hour of bliss. Public and private hammams are available. At a public hammam, you bring a few supplies and another bather (of the same gender) will wash and scrub you. I went to a private hammam for $17. $17 for the one of the best hours of my life. The private hammams are a bit more discreet and more comfortable for many Westerners. The experience entailed being in a large room with heated marble floors and benches and a shower. The attendant used an olive based cleaner and a kise to scrub the daylights out of me. My dead skin was literally peeling off, but afterwards, I had the skin of a newborn baby. She scrubbed my entire body, washed and rinsed my hair, poured warm water over me to get all of the soaps off, dried me off, and moisturized my skin at the end. It was heaven. At the advice of my Airbnb host, I made a late evening appointment, and after the treatment, went home and straight to bed! Perfect way to end the day.

Out and About

Medinas

Medinas are the heart of Moroccan cities. Typically, medinas have narrow streets within the walled part of the city. Mosques, markets, fountains, vendors, and homes fill the medinas. Medinas pulse with energy and new sights, smells and sounds are found around every corner. In Fes, I hired an official Moroccan government tour guide to take me to major sites the first morning I was in the city. The guide’s English was excellent and I learned far more with him than if I was going it alone. Fes is enormous. And confusing. The $25 was well spent to orient me to this sprawling city. Ironically, I got lost right after my guide dropped me off at the city gate. Arrange the tour through your Airbnb host or hotel.

Historic Sites

Morocco is replete with history. Over the millenia, Morocco has been influenced by Arab invaders, the Ottoman Empire, French and Spanish occupation, Berber Christians, Jewish exiles, and for the last few hundred years, has been a monarchy. There are several UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Morocco. More details can be found here. Sites are either free or have a nominal admission fee. Take advantage of the rich history. I loved the Roman-era ruins of Volubilis and visited on Easter Sunday which seemed rather fitting. 

Money

Moroccan dirham is hard to come by outside of the Morocco as it’s a closed currency. It’s illegal to take dirham in or out of Morocco over 1000Dh. I arrived with a few hundred dollars that I exchanged for dirham at the airport. I chose the airport because the exchange rate was competitive and I did not want to visit a bank or ATM as my first activity in a completely unfamiliar country. Make sure the exchange clerk does not give you large bills as these will be difficult to use in small shops that do not have much change. Cash is king in Morocco so bring enough for your trip. Check with your bank to see if it has any partner ATMs if you need to withdraw money and know what the fees are ahead of time. I was hoping to use my credit card or ATM card more, but when I was actually in the country, I quickly realized that my cards were of little use.

Reading

I love to read books that take place where I travel. Stolen Lives: Twenty Years in a Desert Jail is THE book. I could not believe the heartbreak and resilience of this family imprisoned by the former Moroccan King.

Morocco is simply extraordinary. I’ve traveled to several countries, and Morocco is one of the few that I know I will return to. The country is westernized enough to feel slightly familiar, yet so unique, that in a way, nothing was familiar. If you are looking for exotic, distinctive, and affordable, Morocco is the destination.

All photo credits: Jennifer Hayes.